33″ is tight. Many brands today are 30-32″ deep. Brands ask for 3″ behind for clearance, but you can put them really tight to the wall. The trick is to use right-angled washer hoses, and the dryer duct needs to line up right behind it. You can use 33″, but the installer needs to spec the hookups in a smart spot. I am at 34″, and I got mine to fit with 31″ deep machines. Tight but doable! all in the hookups.

A counter-depth fridge’s purpose is to sit flush and not protrude into a walkway, or impede an island, etc. The downside is the capacity, most won’t come in sizes larger than, say 23 cubic feet, so you sacrifice space but gain a look. Almost all new kitchen layouts use a counter depth as a standard cabinet is 24″ deep designed for this kind of product. If you need more space, you can consider cheating the layout by building the fridge further into the wall, so you get the best of both worlds. Standard depth fridges are around 28-30 deep, around 6″ deeper.

A standard fridge, say, a top freezer lasts around 12-15 years. Move to a bottom freezer 10-13. Side-by-side, more like 8-11. Finally, bringing it to a French door, it’s 7-10 as they have more parts, more features, ice, and water. Usually on the door, so they will be the most problematic. Average life 10 years.

Here is what I would look for.

Dishwasher: stainless interior, DB rating 50 or under. Something with a pocket handle would be better.
Microwave: brands like GE LG tend to hold up better
Refrigerator: I would do a top freezer if possible for longevity or a side by side. The french door may be prone to service calls.
Ovens: self-cleaning, 5 burners, one with a backguard vs. a slide-in for a rental prob better, brands like GE, Whirlpool here.